Maine to Canada via the Bay of Fundy
The St. John River in New Brunswick, Canada, at the end moncler outlet woodbury of a long day of sailing. (Claude Roessiger/Claude Roessiger)
Our readers share tales of their ramblings around the world.
Where, when, why: During two weeks in late July and early August, we sailed a 53 foot ketch, “Nanuq,” from its home port in Rockport, Maine, along the state’s “Down East” coast into the Bay of Fundy to St. John, Canada, and the St. John River. The captain Claude and crew had never visited this part of cheap moncler jackets womens the country. The St. John River offered some interesting navigational challenges, such as the Reversing Falls, that beckoned the crew. We were also a multigenerational group: Claude and I are longtime college friends in our late 60s while Marco, Claude’s son in law, and Lilian, a young Swiss woman hired to help with the boat’s general housekeeping and crew responsibilities, are in their late 20s.
In moncler womens jackets Nova Scotia, tidal bore rafting offers a uniquely muddy adventure
Highlights and high points: The much anticipated destinations of the trip were the city of St. John and the St. John River. As we approached the city of St. John, uk moncler sale we found a working harbor with container ships being loaded by mega machinery and sleek, white cruise ships nestled against moncler online store the city’s waterfront. St. John is a medium sized city built on a low hill and a spit of land whose thoroughfares descend to pleasant paved pedestrian cheapmoncler strands near the waterfront. Modern office buildings, numerous church spires and brick warehouses reimagined as restaurants and shopping centers produce a handsome and inviting downtown skyline.
The mouth of the St. John River opens into the broad harbor and the Bay of Fundy, which produces a curious phenomenon called the Reversing Falls. The Bay of Fundy generates monstrous currents that reverse the outward flow of the river during high tide. To enter the upper reaches of the river, the crew was obliged to wait for the onset of “slack water,” or a brief period of time when the river’s outflow matches the tide’s inflow. (This is when the water is at its calmest, and the threat of piloting the boat upriver its least.) The timing of slack water was posted online and in local marine guides, so at moncler outlet prices the allotted time we gunned the boat’s engine, traversed the narrow channel between craggy cliffs and rocks, and beneath soaring highway bridges, to enter moncler outlet online Grand Bay. We congratulated ourselves on an excellent piece of navigation. On the return trip, we were experienced hands as we followed the channel in the opposite direction. However, the time of slack water was before sunrise, so the crew accomplished this feat half asleep. (Geoffrey Weiss/Geoffrey Weiss)
Cultural connection or disconnect: We enjoyed the kindness and hospitality of the Canadian people. The taxi drivers in the city of St. politics and their deepest personal moncler outlet secrets with minimal inducement. On the St. John River and ashore, we met individuals who were eager and happy to assist us. A couple in a motor yacht moored near us on Douglas Harbor by Grand Bay invited us to their boat for conversation, beverages, grilled Digby scallops and dessert confections. Finally, while stocking up on provisions at the Royal Kennebecasis Yacht Club on Kennebecasis Bay, we were invited by members of a wedding party to join moncler uk outlet their reception. It was a happy, noisy and well cheap moncler coats mens lubricated affair.
Biggest laugh or cry: The crew had a chuckle in Gagetown, New Brunswick, a pretty village on the higher reaches of the St. John River. One of the local restaurants, Gulliver’s World Cafe, boasts uk moncler outlet the most expensive french fries $12.99 in New Brunswick. One must call ahead to make moncler sale online reservations for this delicacy, as the fries are dipped multiple times in hot goose fat from France to produce their trademark crispness. Our crew passed moncler sale on the opportunity to sample this choice fare in deference to our coronary arteries.
The biggest cry was the traverse from Grand Manan Island to St. John. Grand Manan is a large island with a dramatic coastline just off the easternmost edge of Maine. We arrived in North Head Harbor on the east side of the island moncler outlet store to spend the night. Since the harbor was open to the sea, the wind and heavy swells produced a noisy night in the swaying boat. The next morning, as we headed for St. John, sea swells were 5 to 6 inches high. Geoffrey and Marco cheap moncler jackets promptly turned green moncler sale outlet and dove for the lowest point in the cabin to sleep off the seasickness.
[Roots and relatives on a family vacation in Ireland’s County Kerry]
How unexpected: Each of us was struck by the unexpected beauty of the St. John River and its surroundings. Just above the city of St. John and the best moncler jackets Reversing Falls, the river opens moncler outlet sale into the calm water of Grand Bay, the entryway cheap moncler jackets mens to the numerous large lakes and bays beyond (Kennebecasis Bay, Belleisle Bay, Long Reach and Grand Lake, among others). The course of the St. John River is lined by verdant, rolling highlands, hardwood forests and low wetlands. Wildlife is everywhere along the waterway. The water is temperate, and the younger members of our crew swam comfortably. We would often moor the boat in a small cove, surrounded by forest, and allow ourselves to be serenaded by the birds and cicadas.
Favorite memento or memory: Our fondest memory and biggest surprise was the camaraderie and good fellowship of the crew. The living space on the boat is compact. The discount moncler jackets crew slept, ate, navigated, hauled lines and trimmed sails together for the entire trip and despite close quarters nary moncler usa an ill word was exchanged. Marco displayed special courage, sailing with his father in law for two full weeks. We discovered previously unplumbed reservoirs of humor, laughing for moncler mens jackets 16 days straight, cheap moncler sale generated memories of a beautiful part of the world and became fast friends.